HANDLE WITH CARE

The spoils of the hunt are either a trophy or venison or both. Avoid disappointment and wastage by taking the necessary precautions to prevent damage to trophies or spoilage of meat.

VENISON CARE AND PREPARATION

As soon as possible, place the carcass in a cooler environment, such as in deep shade or a cold room. Degut promptly, as this will result in a carcass with superior meat quality (Figure 1).

After evisceration, the carcass can be hung in the shade and where there is adequate air movement, which will assist in lowering carcass temperature (Figure 2).

Take care when degutting not to cut the stomach or intestines, as this will cause rumen or intestinal fluids to leak into the body cavity and will taint the meat.

Blowflies will be quickly attracted to the carcass. Rinse off the carcass with clean water to remove blood and other body fluids. Meat will quickly spoil if flies lay eggs in the tissues, and larvae will soon hatch out, making the venison unusable. A good way to protect the skinned or degutted carcass from blowflies, where it has been hung to cool, is to pull mutton cloth (also known as cheese cloth) over it like a sock (Figure 3).

To prevent meat spoilage, it should be processed after being allowed to cool or placed in a cold room to age. It is also delicious to utilize fresh–grilled steak, barbequed ribs (Figure 4), or in a venison stew (Figure 5). Freshly butchered cuts (Figure 6) can be packed and frozen or immediately processed to make biltong (jerky) or sausage (Figure 7). The vinegar and salt used during the biltong and wors (sausage) making process preserve it and prevent the meat from going rotten.

TROPHY CARE AND PREPARATION

Skinning

The proper skinning and care of hunted animals is crucial to ensure that the taxidermist receives the trophy in good condition.  The Hunting Outfitter or hunter assumes the responsibility to ensure that capes reach the client in a satisfactory condition, whether dipped and shipped or fully mounted. It is a hunter’s responsibility to ensure that harvested animals are properly handled in the field and that the skinning, salting, and storage are correctly carried out. 

The most important rules to remember when skinning animals are that there should be as few incisions as possible and that incisions should be as inconspicuous as possible; therefore, do not cut unnecessarily, and cut correctly. 

The main concern regarding the skin is a condition called hair slip, where hair loss occurs due to the bacterial breakdown of the hair follicle and subsequent loss of hair.

Hair loss could also be caused by dragging the animal, specifically over rocky terrain. This hair loss is not due to hair slipping but is caused by the physical pulling out of the hair as it is dragged over stones, rocks, logs, etc. 

 The factors that accelerate or create conditions for hair slip can, however, under most circumstances, be managed or controlled by the hunter to minimize the risk of hair loss. 

Some animals are more prone to hairslip than others and require special care.  Klipspringers are generally regarded as being the most prone to hairslip, and hunters in the know often take along a large cooler a quarter full of ice and place the entire animal on ice once it has been hunted. When the skinning and the hunting facility are on the same property or close by, such measures are not necessary.  Gemsbuck, impala, and kudu bulls are next in line and should be treated with extra care to avoid hairslip.

Hippo and warthog are relatively hairless and are affected by a condition called epidermal slippage.  These species have quite thick skin, warthog particularly so on the head/neck region, and since salt only penetrates about 5mm into a wet skin, the salt seldom reaches the outer epidermal layer.  Bacterial activity in this layer then causes the epidermis, which contains the pigmentation that gives the animal its natural colour, to flake off, leaving an unnatural whitish colour.  This condition can also occur in hippos.  The taxidermist then has no option but to touch up the mount using an airbrush with paint that matches its natural colour.

The following factors create conditions that are conducive to hair loss.

Temperature

It is well known that bacterial activity is at its peak under warm conditions and slows down as temperatures drop, and comes to a complete standstill at the freezing point.  It is therefore the objective to cool the carcass down as quickly as possible.  Sources of heat on the hunt are the surface substrate, such as rock and soil, direct sunlight, or the metal surface of a vehicle on which a carcass is to be transported. It is therefore not advisable to leave carcasses lying on hot ground or in the direct sun.

Move carcasses immediately into a shady spot out of the heat and where the ground surface temperature is cooler.  An animal’s internal organs are also a source of heat that keeps the carcass warm for much longer.  Removing the innards will ensure that the carcass temperature drops much faster, and the animal will also be a lot lighter to carry, if necessary (Figure 8). 

If the skin is required for trophy purposes, make sure that the underbelly incision is not too long, as it may be conspicuous on the final trophy.  Care must also be taken not to mess blood or gut content on the skin during the removal of the innards. Vehicles with rubberized load bays are not ideal due to the heat they absorb; loading an animal on this hot surface or directly onto the metal of the loadbed is less than ideal. If the hunting vehicle has rubberizing, then branches with green foliage, or a tarp, can be placed on the back of the vehicle before loading to prevent contact with the hot surface.

Covering the animal with plastic sheeting or a tarpaulin is not recommended as this will cause a build-up of heat and moisture, ideal conditions under which bacteria flourish.

Time

The longer it takes to remove the skin and eviscerate the animal, the greater the chances of hairslip.  Although hairslip is dependent on the ambient temperature and the type of animal, it will almost be guaranteed to have occurred after 6 hours. It is important, therefore, not to continue with a hunt once an animal has been harvested, get it to the skinning facility as soon as possible, or arrange another vehicle to collect the carcass.

At times, it may even be necessary to skin the animal in the field.  If the trophy is the priority, the meat can be collected once the trophy has received the necessary attention.

Blood and bodily fluids

Blood and bodily fluids on the skin are havens for large concentrations of blowflies and bacteria, and should be washed off or removed as soon as possible. A wet skin will also cause the carcass to cool down quicker.  When transporting a carcass on the back of a vehicle, the mouth and nostrils of the dead animal can be stuffed with toilet paper or cloth to prevent the animal’s head from lying in its own leaking body fluids.

Care should also be taken not to damage the skin when the animal is loaded; the animal should always be loaded head-first with the lie of the hair.

Salting skins

Once the skin has been removed from the carcass, all excess fat and flesh must be removed.  Excess tissue is a barrier that inhibits salt penetration, which can result in hair slip. A typical example of this is the fat under a zebra’s mane that must be removed, not to cut too deeply, or the hair roots or follicles may be damaged, resulting in the loss of the mane.  Special care should also be taken with cat species since the subcutaneous fat that is found under the skin forms a relatively impenetrable layer that hampers salt penetration. 

This fat should be removed by scraping and washing off with a degreaser and a stiff brush.  Now, place the skin on a flat, clean surface with the hair side up and rinse with cold water. Brush the skin with a firm brush in the direction in which the hair lies.  This will rid the skin of any dirt or blood that has caked in the hair.

Soaking skins in a brine solution is also recommended and will assist in killing unwanted bacteria responsible for hair slip.  A large tank will be required for this purpose. The brine solution should consist of about 20 kilograms of salt per 100 liters of water. Use clean, high-grade salt.  A disinfectant like Dettol or Savlon can be added to the solution at a ratio of about 50 ml per 100 liters; this will add to the antibacterial properties of the solution.  The skin can be soaked in this solution for 3 to 6 hours, or overnight will also do.

When the skin is removed from the brine, it can be hung in a shady spot until all excess water has drained off, but do not allow the skin to start to dry.  A skin that has started to dry (dehydrate) must be placed in the brine solution; salt will not dissolve and penetrate a dry skin. 

The skin must now be placed on a bed of salt with the hair side downwards; the layer should be at least 50mm thick.  Now salt the raw upper side of the skin using clean salt, make sure that the salt is rubbed in properly (Figure 9), specifically in the nose, lips, ears, and eye area of the skin.  Do not use iodised salt as it makes the skin wrinkle. Do not let the turned-out “socks” of the legs lie with the hair touching hair; rather, fill them with a moderate amount of salt.

 It is very important that skins are also properly cleaned prior to salting; dirty skins leave blood, tissue, and fatty tissue behind in the salt.  This organic material provides the ideal breeding ground for Halobacteria, a bacterium that thrives in wet salt. These bacteria are also commonly referred to as red mould or red heat and leave a pink discolouration on the skin.  Skins affected by Halobacteria can be thrown away since large-scale hairslip occurs.  Pools of salt water that accumulate on the skins are the perfect breeding ground for Halobacteria, hence the importance of sloping floors that facilitate drainage of moisture from the skin.

Take note that the sides of fresh skins are inclined to roll up, which means that this must be unrolled for salt to reach and penetrate it.

Skins must be salted for the periods indicated, as shown in Table 1, for adequate curing.

Table 1: Duration of salting for skins

Before the skins are completely dry, each must be folded to establish fold marks so that the skin does not crack when it is folded at the dry stage.

Place the skin with the hairy side now facing upwards and fold the sides towards the centre so that the sides meet, with the hair facing inwards. Fold lengthwise to the required size so that the meat side is on the outside and no hair can be damaged during transport. Tread down firmly to establish the fold marks, unfold again, and allow to dry thoroughly. Naphthalene flakes and/or Carbadust can be sprinkled on the skins to protect them from insect infestation.

The skins can now be folded and placed in a quarantine shed and stored until dispatched to a taxidermist for final processing.

Crocodile and ostrich skins must be dried after salting.  Care must be taken to remove all fat from the ostrich skin, specifically at the base of the feathers. As with crocodiles, the skull must not be removed from a full mount ostrich, cut up to just behind the head. Remove the eyes, brain, and tongue, and salt well. Never use formalin or any formalin-containing product to preserve skins and horns.

PREPARING SKULLS

Irrespective of the type of head mount you desire, you will have to clean, degrease, and bleach the skull. Skulls must be salted along with the skins. Place the skull in the salt, ensuring that the eye sockets and brain cavity have been filled with salt.  Skulls can be removed when the skins are removed from the salt, the excess salt shaken off, and then placed in the drying room with the skins.

If you have a fresh skull, begin by cleaning as much of the meat as possible from the skull.  Remove the tongue & tissue from the lower jaw & separate it from the skull, clean out the brain cavity & remove the eyeballs.  You are now ready to either freeze the skull or begin the cleaning process.  If the skull was frozen intact, then thaw it, clean the meat & tissue as described above, and begin.

Place a pot on a heat source and crank it up to boil the water.  Add a handful (1/2 cup) of washing soda for every 5 litres of water.  When the water begins to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer (just barely bubbling) and put in the skull.  For horned animals, submerge the entire skull.  The horns MUST come off the cores, and then the skull & horns cleaned separately.

Allow the skull to boil for 5 minutes or so, then use tongs to lift the skull out of the water.  If the meat has started to peel away from the bone, then use a knife and a wire brush to start cleaning.  When you have removed all the meat that will come off easily, put it back in the water and allow it to boil some more.  Repeat this process as needed.  Use the wires and picks to clean out ALL the tissue in the nooks and crannies. Pay close attention to the lower jaw, the brain cavity, and the nasal passages. It is important to remove all tissue from the skull, or it will begin to smell.  HOWEVER, in order to keep the skull from falling apart, you want to boil it for the shortest time and at the lowest heat possible.  Some teeth may become loose or come out.  It is recommended that you remove the teeth, clean the base or root, and lay them out to dry in their proper order (or position in the mouth).

 When you have removed all the tissue, you can leave the skull somewhere outside where it is out of direct sunlight.  You want the skull to stay moist, and you want flies to be able to get to it.  If you have missed any organic tissue, the flies will find it, and in a day or so, maggots will begin feeding on what you missed.  It may begin to smell, but this is OK – they will soften the remaining tissue in places you may not be able to reach.  After a few days, boil the skull again in clean water with washing soda.  This should remove any maggots and remaining tissue.  Use an air compressor and a blow gun nozzle to flush out the brain and other cavities.  Scrub the skull with soap and water and allow it to air dry.

 Degreasing

You will now want to remove the grease adhering to the skull. Use a degreasing agent such as industrial acetone. Follow all manufacturers’ precautions when using these products – many are highly flammable.  Although carbon tetrachloride is an excellent degreasing agent, it is hazardous to health and should not be used.

Completely cover the bones (except the teeth) and allow them to soak overnight, 12 hours or so. Then remove them and let them air dry in the sun.  Clean the teeth with the solvent one at a time using an old toothbrush.  Place them on a clean paper towel in their proper order.  After a few days, or when the skull is thoroughly dry, glue the teeth back into position using a small amount of super glue on each tooth.  Allow the glue to completely dry before beginning the bleaching process. 

Bleaching

More properly called “whitening” since no bleach is used.  Using common household bleach will damage the bones & cause them to flake.  To get bones really white, use the following materials: 

• 40% Hydrogen peroxide – This is NOT the 3% stuff you buy at the drug store.  This is used by beauty shops to strip the colour from your hair. 
• Magnesium carbonate – about 500 grams.
• In a plastic container, mix about ½ cup of hydrogen peroxide with the magnesium carbonate until a thick paste is formed.  Brush it all over the skull.  Use a wire to hang the skull to dry.  If you can, hang it in the sun.  Place something under the bones to catch any drips. 

 When the skull has dried, put on a dust respirator and brush the flakes off the skull.  The powder can be saved & reused.  Rinse the remaining powder off under running water and place it in the sun to dry again. You should now be left with a well-prepared skull.